Bite-size steak: the signature dish of the region

Exactly who developed bite-size steak and where it was first served is a matter of debate.

The dish is strongly associated with Lewiston’s BoJack’s Broiler Pit, but bite size is believed to have been on the menu of other restaurants before being introduced at BoJack’s, according to people interviewed by the Tribune for stories that ran in 2000 and 2001.

Interestingly, at least two restaurants historically known for bite size have the word “chicken,” not beef in their names.

One of the theories is that it was invented by Jack Frost the owner of the Chicken Roost, a supper club that operated on the Lewiston Hill in the late 1950s and early 1960s.

Theresa Rivers, an owner of Wayback Cafe & Catering in Lewiston, remembers it at Chicken Broaster, a Lewiston restaurant that used to be at the intersection of Thain Road and Burrell Avenue near the Nez Perce County Fairgrounds and along 21st Street.

Authentic bite size is made of sirloin, marinated in spices sprinkled with pancake flour and deep fried, Marie Mitchell, a one-time owner of the Chicken Roost, told the Tribune in 2001.

The coating seals in the juices and prevents the meat from charring, she said.

At a time when restaurants still cut their own meat, it may have provided a way to use pieces that were too small for steak, Mitchell said.

From that humble beginning, the popularity of the hearty dish has grown exponentially while remaining a local phenomenon, popular at many sit-down dinner restaurants in the Lewiston-Clarkston Valley, the Clearwater Valley and the Camas Prairie.

“They don’t even know what bite size is in Moscow and Pullman,” Rivers said.

If you want to sample one of the region’s most authentically local dishes, here are five restaurants in Lewiston to consider:

BoJack’s Broiler Pit

Address: 311 Main St. Lewiston in Morgan’s Alley

Owners: Michelle and Chad Smith

What makes the experience special: BoJack’s feels a little like a time capsule where the best things of the past are alive and well. Many of its regulars have been customers for decades. The main floor is a bar, known for its cold beer and strong, old-school drinks. Its restaurant is in the basement with exposed brick pillars. Dinners come with portions of salad or soup, bread and spaghetti so generous diners have to strategize to save room for their entrees. Its bite-size steak can be ordered at the bar or restaurant. It’s made from sirloin and cooked in BoJack’s house seasoning.

Origin story of the restaurant: BoJack’s gets its name from the two men who founded it in 1951, Bob and Jack. Wally and Kate Egland acquired BoJack’s in 1969. They passed it on to one of their sons, David Egland. He owned and operated it for more than 40 years, until his death in 2022, when one of his daughters, Michelle Smith, inherited it.

Brava’s

Address: 504 Main St., Suite 201, Lewiston

Owners: Aubree Michnal, Kris Maxey and Becki Williams

What makes the experience special: Brava’s has three versions of bite size, each with a distinct taste. All are made from prime-grade, certified Angus beef and marinated for at least 48 hours before being served. “They’re so tender you can cut them with a butter knife,” Michnal said.

Its traditional bite size in a dinner portion has a hint of sweet in the savory mix of spices that flavor it. It’s lightly dusted in a flour mix and flash fried to enhance the flavor and tenderness of the meat. An appetizer version of bite size features smaller pieces of steak in a portion that is not as big as the dinner entree. Called “Bite Size Bites,” they’re tossed in melted blue cheese.

Its pickled bites are marinated in an onion pickle brine. They’re grilled without breading and served with pickled onions. “It’s tangy,” Michnal said. “It’s zesty. It has a zing to it.”

Origin story: Brava’s was founded nine years ago by Magen Goforth. Michnal and Maxey acquired it from Goforth in January 2020. Born in Lewiston, Michnal had nine years of hospitality experience when she became an owner of Brava’s. Maxey was the lead bartender of Brock’s, a bar that’s adjacent to Brava’s that’s under the same ownership. Michnal was managing an upscale Italian restaurant near Whitefish, Mont., when she ate at Brava’s visiting family in Lewiston during the holidays in 2018. The experience was so great that Michnal eventually worked out the deal to acquire the restaurant with Maxey. Michnal’s mom and Maxey’s fiancee, Becki Williams, gained an ownership stake in 2020.

Jollymore’s: A Dining Experience

Address: 1516 Main St., Lewiston

Owner: Bill Jollymore

What makes the experience special: At Jollymore’s, customers dress up for special occasions, like anniversaries and birthdays. Jollymore’s flame grills its bite-size steak, which is marinated with a blend of garlic and herbs. It’s served with French onion au jus and roasted Northwest potatoes.

Origin story: Jollymore launched his own restaurant in 2014. Before that, he became known on the valley’s culinary scene for appearing on billboards with the motto “Never trust a skinny chef” when he was at what is now the Hells Canyon Grand Hotel. His son, Aaron Jollymore, is the restaurant’s executive chef.

Meriwether’s Bistro at Hells Canyon Grand Hotel

Address: 621 21st St. Lewiston

Owners: Tony Copeland and partners

What makes the experience special: Martin “Doug” Kohn became the executive chef of Meriwether’s about eight years ago. He brought more than 30 years of experience as a chef in the Northwest and, since bite size is such a local phenomenon, no knowledge of bite size to the job. After sampling as many versions as possible, he put his own stamp on Meriwether’s bite size. He marinates tender pieces of beef that are grilled and served with a demi-glace with scallions made from reduced beef stock that’s prepared in house. The meat can be deep fried at the customer’s request.

Origin: Meriwether’s opened at the same time as the hotel in 1988. The owners have always intended the restaurant to be a dining destination for special occasions and travelers staying at the property’s hotel rooms.

Wayback Cafe & Catering

Address: 2138 13th Ave., Lewiston, behind Pizza Hut just off 21st Street

Owner: Tim and Theresa Rivers

What makes the experience special: Bite-size steak is such a hit at Wayback Cafe that the 1950s-themed restaurant has a traditional and teriyaki style on the menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The breakfast version comes with two eggs cooked any way the customer wants, plus a choice of hashbrowns and toast, French toast, pancakes, biscuits and gravy or a fruit cup. Entrees come with soup or salad, Texas toast, a vegetable and choice of potato.

Each style of bite size is available in two sizes, 8 ounce and 16 ounce. The top sirloin for all the bite size is marinated in a savory house blend that has a hint of brown sugar and honey for 24 to 36 hours.

The traditional version is breaded with a flour coating then deep fried, leaving the meat crisp on the outside and tender on the inside. If customers prefer, their steak can be grilled without breading. They’re served with au jus or steak sauce, but Theresa Rivers said her favorite way to eat them is plain.

The teriyaki style is not breaded and sauteed in an Asian sauce with peppers, pineapple and onions.

Origin story: The Rivers acquired Wayback Cafe & Catering in 1997 from the Mason family. She was looking for a new career after having hand surgery. Wayback was a good fit because even though she had worked a nine-year stint at CCI/Speer, she always maintained at least one job in hospitality. Among them were being an employee at the Albertsons bakery, a bartender at the Mexican restaurant Cafe Ole, a bartender at the Lewiston Elks club and a restaurant and banquet manager at what is now the Hells Canyon Grand Hotel in Lewiston.

Williams may be contacted at ewilliam@lmtribune.com or (208) 848-2261.