BusinessMay 12, 2024
Last week’s look at a few eateries that serve the local dish got a big reaction, so here are some more bite-size profiles
Ryan M Williams adds some sauce to a plate of sweet chili bites held by Tina Poe at Seasons Bites and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.
Ryan M Williams adds some sauce to a plate of sweet chili bites held by Tina Poe at Seasons Bites and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.August Frank/Tribune
Hogan’s is pictured Wednesday in Clarkston.
Hogan’s is pictured Wednesday in Clarkston.August Frank/Tribune
Tina Poe, left, and Ryan M Williams pose for a photo in front of plates of their sweet chili bites and surf and turf at Seasons Bites and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.
Tina Poe, left, and Ryan M Williams pose for a photo in front of plates of their sweet chili bites and surf and turf at Seasons Bites and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.August Frank/Tribune
A plate of surf and turf is pictured at Seasons Bites and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.
A plate of surf and turf is pictured at Seasons Bites and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.August Frank/Tribune
A plate of sweet chili bites is pictured at Seasons Bites and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.
A plate of sweet chili bites is pictured at Seasons Bites and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.August Frank/Tribune
Pieces of bite size steak are pictured at Seasons Bites and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.
Pieces of bite size steak are pictured at Seasons Bites and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.August Frank/Tribune
Tina Poe, left, and Ryan M Williams hold out plates of their surf and turf and sweet chili bites at Seasons Bitse and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.
Tina Poe, left, and Ryan M Williams hold out plates of their surf and turf and sweet chili bites at Seasons Bitse and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.August Frank/Tribune
A plate of sweet chili bites is pictured at Seasons Bites and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.
A plate of sweet chili bites is pictured at Seasons Bites and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.August Frank/Tribune
A plate of surf and turf is pictured at Seasons Bites and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.
A plate of surf and turf is pictured at Seasons Bites and Burgers Wednesday in Lewiston.August Frank/Tribune

The response to our recent story about bite-size steak confirmed two important qualities of the region.

The residents of north central Idaho and southeastern Washington love bite-size steak and are incredibly loyal to their favorite locally owned restaurants.

We messaged every restaurant we spotted in social media comments and invited them to provide information about their version of bite size. We also heard more about the history of the unpretentious delicacy.

More than one person believes it was invented by E.R. “Scrappy” Curtis, who, according to his granddaughter, introduced it in 1963 or 1964 and served it at the Woodshed in Winchester after it opened in 1971.

The first time A.L. “Butch” Alford Jr., our semi-retired publisher, recalls eating bite-size steak was at The Chicken Roost in McCall, where he and his family started visiting to ski at Brundage Mountain Resort in 1965.

As we noted previously, many of the restaurants closely associated with bite size counterintuitively have chicken, not beef, in their names. The Chicken Roost was a family-friendly night spot in the resort town with affordable, delicious food, Alford said.

Its bite size was made from sirloin, breaded and deep fried, he said.

Customers at The Chicken Roost might also see its owners, Jack Frost and Jack Frost’s wife, who went by the name of “Frosty,” arguing, Alford said.

“(They) would often entertain the children with excessive drinking and verbal or sometimes otherwise spats,” he said.

After the Frosts divorced, she continued to operate The Chicken Roost in McCall for six or seven years until it burned in a fire, Alford said.

Jack Frost moved to Lewiston, purchased the Trio Club partway up the Lewiston Hill, renamed it The Chicken Roost and included bite-size steak on the menu, he said.

Additionally, many of the people we talked to about bite-size steak believe it’s not as prominent on the Palouse as it is in the Lewiston-Clarkston Valley, on the Camas Prairie and in the Clearwater Valley.

That may be true. But people who commented on our social media mentioned liking bite-size steak at two Pullman restaurants, Birch & Barley and My Office Bar & Grill.

The restaurants we listed last week were BoJack’s Broiler Pit, Brava’s, Jollymore’s: A Dining Experience, Meriwether’s Bistro at Hells Canyon Grand Hotel, and Wayback Cafe & Catering. Those descriptions have also been added to this list.

Even with this expansion of the list, we know there are many more great places to have bite size in the region. Please share any suggestions you have for future coverage at ewilliam@lmtribune.com with “bite-size steak” in the subject line.

Here are seven more great places for bite-size steak

Bircher’s Grill

Address: 514 Main St., Lewiston

Owner: Robert Bircher

What makes its bite-size steak special: Robert Bircher drew on what he learned cooking hundreds of orders of bite-size steak over 30 years in developing the three versions on the Bircher’s Grill menu: regular, cajun spice and teriyaki. He hand-cuts his bite size from ball tip sirloin steak, using only the most tender parts of the meat. The regular is typically breaded and deep fried. The cajun and teriyaki are charbroiled and unbreaded. The teriyaki version is served with sesame seeds and bell peppers. The choices of sides are loaded mashed potatoes, french fries, fettuccine or rice.

Origin story: Bircher, 53, is a self-taught cook who started out in the industry when he was 15 years old. He has worked for many of the storied names in the Lewiston-Clarkston Valley’s culinary scene such as Bill Jollymore, owner of Jollymore’s: A Dining Experience; John Sanders, the founder of Jonathan’s and Antonio’s Italian restaurant; and Bruce Finch, founder of Happy Day Corp., which operates sit-down and fast-serve restaurants such as Taco Time, Arby’s, Zany’s and Tomato Bros. Bircher’s resume includes stints at the Lewiston Golf and Country Club and Tri-State Hospital’s (now TriState Health) nutritional services department as well as being the assistant kitchen manager at Zany’s in Lewiston. His last job before opening Bircher’s was owning the restaurant at the Moose Lodge in Clarkston. Instead of seeking another job working for someone else when the Moose Lodge closed, he established Bircher’s with a small loan and credit cards at the encouragement of Sanders.

Hogan’s

Address: 906 Sixth St., Clarkston

Owners: Skate and Meghan Pierce

What makes its bite-size steak special: The meat for Hogan’s bite-size is hand-cut, marinated and grilled. The dish comes with salad, garlic bread and a choice of french fries, onion rings or a baked potato.

Origin story: Hogan’s was founded by George Kenneth Hogan in 1945 as Hogan’s Place and Sporting Goods in Clarkston in the same building where it is now. Hogan retired in 1975 and the business went through a series of owners until Tony Salerno bought it in 2005. The Pierces acquired it in 2018. The couple met at Hogan’s when she bartended and he was a customer. He later managed the bar and restaurant. She is an owner and massage therapist at Tap Intuit Massage Therapy across the street from the restaurant. A Clarkston city councilor, Skate Pierce is an owner of The Drinky Box, across the street from Clarkston’s Albertsons.

Matt’s Grill

Address: 902 Second St., Asotin

Owners: Matt and Rose Oldenkamp

What makes its bite-size steak special: Bite size is on the menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner at Matt’s Grill. Its version is made from a shoulder tender, a cut of meat that’s moist and juicy. The bites are marinated for at least 24 hours before being dipped in a seasoned coating and deep fried.

Origin story: Matt’s Grill opened in Morgans’ Alley and moved to its present location in Asotin in 2013. Matt Oldenkamp held a number of positions in hospitality in the area before founding Matt’s Grill, including being executive chef of Three-Mile Inn, a restaurant that used to be south of Asotin.

Scrappy’s Bites, Burgers & Brats

Address: 2535 Appleside Blvd., Clarkston

Owner: Sean Curtis

What makes its bite-size steak special: Scrappy’s base recipe for bite-size steak may be one of the oldest in the region. It’s from Sean Curtis’ dad, E.R. “Scrappy” Curtis, who began making bite size in 1963 or 1964 and opened the Woodshed in Winchester in 1971, where he served the dish, said Hannah Curtis, Scrappy’s granddaughter, who works at Scrappy’s. The meat is marinated for 48 hours. Its traditional bite size is breaded and deep fried. It also has unbreaded, broiled bite size that are flavored with cajun, Montreal or Scrappy’s seasoning or no seasoning. All are available in three sizes and come with french fries.

Origin story: Scrappy’s is a take-out order restaurant located in a small building with only a kitchen and outdoor seating. It opened in December. Just prior to opening Scrappy’s, Sean was a salesperson at Lewiston RV. He previously managed Rookies in Clarkston and worked at the Clarkston Country Club. Besides the two Curtises, Kathina Carr is employed at Scrappy’s.

Seasons Bites & Burgers

Address: 301 Main St. Lewiston

Owner: Tina Poe

What makes its bite-size steak special: Seasons Bites & Burgers infuses its choices of bite-size steak with creativity. Tina Poe’s husband, Ryan M. Williams, the restaurant’s executive chef, prepares the bite size using choice beef. All six kinds are made with blends of house spices. Valley Bites are the restaurant’s traditional take on the region’s classic dish. They’re lightly breaded and deep fried. The others are broiled, blackened cajun, blue cheese, huckleberry barbecue and sweet chili. Each is served with a house slaw and a choice of french fries, green salad or soup. For a little extra, the dishes can be accompanied with sweet potato fries, onion rings or loaded baked potatoes.

Origin story: Diners need to look no further than the name of Seasons Bites & Burgers to comprehend its enthusiasm for bite-size steak. Tina Poe opened Seasons Bistro at Morgans’ Alley in 2011 and later changed the name to Seasons Bites & Burgers. Over the years, the menu has evolved to have a focus on bite-size steak and hamburgers, which are big customer favorites. She is also the owner of Old Town Sushi, which is adjacent to Seasons. Williams learned how to be a chef cooking at the Clarkston Country Club and Zany Graze in Lewiston. Long-time area residents may remember her from Black Bird Java in downtown Lewiston or Vesuvius Lounge in downtown Clarkston.

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Station 3

Address: 916 Sixth St. Clarkston

Owner: Eric Frei

What makes its bite-size steak special: Station 3 marintes its bite size in a house recipe for three to four days then grills it without breading. It comes with fresh-made mashed potatoes, garlic toast and a choice of soup or salad.

Origin story: Frei acquired Station 3 this year from Bill Jollymore. Frei also owns the Winchester Kitchen and Bar since purchasing it 2019 after spending many years as a truck driver in the agricultural industry. In Winchester, he has built on what he learned as a one-time owner of two Lewiston bars, PALS and The Villa. About a year ago, Frei opened 602 Burgers and Dogs in the former Lunch Box Deli space in North Lewiston. After purchasing Station 3, Frei closed Burgers and Dogs. Station 3 is larger than Burgers and Dogs and has a full liquor license.

Tomato Bros. Italian Steakhouse & Family Restaurant

Address: 200 Bridge St., Clarkston

Owner: Happy Day Corp.

What makes its bite-size steak special: Bite size is on the lunch and dinner menus of Tomato Bros. It is made from 100% Angus beef and comes with au jus. The meat is breaded before being cooked, leaving the outside crispy and the steak tender. Tomato Bros. also offers grilled versions of bite size. Options for sides include pasta, baked potatoes or french fries.

Origin story: Tomato Bros. opened in 1993 as a place for families to dine with a sports lounge. It has one of the region’s largest selections of wines from Walla Walla, Spokane, Pullman and the Lewiston-Clarkston Valley.

BoJack’s Broiler Pit

Address: 311 Main St. Lewiston in Morgan’s Alley

Owners: Michelle and Chad Smith

What makes the experience special: BoJack’s feels a little like a time capsule where the best things of the past are alive and well. Many of its regulars have been customers for decades. The main floor is a bar, known for its cold beer and strong, old-school drinks. Its restaurant is in the basement with exposed brick pillars. Dinners come with portions of salad or soup, bread and spaghetti so generous diners have to strategize to save room for their entrees. Its bite-size steak can be ordered at the bar or restaurant. It’s made from sirloin and cooked in BoJack’s house seasoning.

Origin story of the restaurant: BoJack’s gets its name from the two men who founded it in 1951, Bob and Jack. Wally and Kate Egland acquired BoJack’s in 1969. They passed it on to one of their sons, David Egland. He owned and operated it for more than 40 years, until his death in 2022, when one of his daughters, Michelle Smith, inherited it.

Brava’s

Address: 504 Main St., Suite 201, Lewiston

Owners: Aubree Michnal, Kris Maxey and Becki Williams

What makes the experience special: Brava’s has three versions of bite size, each with a distinct taste. All are made from prime-grade, certified Angus beef and marinated for at least 48 hours before being served. “They’re so tender you can cut them with a butter knife,” Michnal said.

Its traditional bite size in a dinner portion has a hint of sweet in the savory mix of spices that flavor it. It’s lightly dusted in a flour mix and flash fried to enhance the flavor and tenderness of the meat. An appetizer version of bite size features smaller pieces of steak in a portion that is not as big as the dinner entree. Called “Bite Size Bites,” they’re tossed in melted blue cheese.

Its pickled bites are marinated in an onion pickle brine. They’re grilled without breading and served with pickled onions. “It’s tangy,” Michnal said. “It’s zesty. It has a zing to it.”

Origin story: Brava’s was founded nine years ago by Magen Goforth. Michnal and Maxey acquired it from Goforth in January 2020. Born in Lewiston, Michnal had nine years of hospitality experience when she became an owner of Brava’s. Maxey was the lead bartender of Brock’s, a bar that’s adjacent to Brava’s that’s under the same ownership. Michnal was managing an upscale Italian restaurant near Whitefish, Mont., when she ate at Brava’s visiting family in Lewiston during the holidays in 2018. The experience was so great that Michnal eventually worked out the deal to acquire the restaurant with Maxey. Michnal’s mom and Maxey’s fiancee, Becki Williams, gained an ownership stake in 2020.

Jollymore’s: A Dining Experience

Address: 1516 Main St., Lewiston

Owner: Bill Jollymore

What makes the experience special: At Jollymore’s, customers dress up for special occasions, like anniversaries and birthdays. Jollymore’s flame grills its bite-size steak, which is marinated with a blend of garlic and herbs. It’s served with French onion au jus and roasted Northwest potatoes.

Origin story: Jollymore launched his own restaurant in 2014. Before that, he became known on the valley’s culinary scene for appearing on billboards with the motto “Never trust a skinny chef” when he was at what is now the Hells Canyon Grand Hotel. His son, Aaron Jollymore, is the restaurant’s executive chef.

Meriwether’s Bistro at Hells Canyon Grand Hotel

Address: 621 21st St. Lewiston

Owners: Tony Copeland and partners

What makes the experience special: Martin “Doug” Kohn became the executive chef of Meriwether’s about eight years ago. He brought more than 30 years of experience as a chef in the Northwest and, since bite size is such a local phenomenon, no knowledge of bite size to the job. After sampling as many versions as possible, he put his own stamp on Meriwether’s bite size. He marinates tender pieces of beef that are grilled and served with a demi-glace with scallions made from reduced beef stock that’s prepared in house. The meat can be deep fried at the customer’s request.

Origin: Meriwether’s opened at the same time as the hotel in 1988. The owners have always intended the restaurant to be a dining destination for special occasions and travelers staying at the property’s hotel rooms.

Wayback Cafe & Catering

Address: 2138 13th Ave., Lewiston, behind Pizza Hut just off 21st Street

Owner: Tim and Theresa Rivers

What makes the experience special: Bite-size steak is such a hit at Wayback Cafe that the 1950s-themed restaurant has a traditional and teriyaki style on the menu for breakfast, lunch and dinner. The breakfast version comes with two eggs cooked any way the customer wants, plus a choice of hashbrowns and toast, French toast, pancakes, biscuits and gravy or a fruit cup. Entrees come with soup or salad, Texas toast, a vegetable and choice of potato.

Each style of bite size is available in two sizes, 8 ounce and 16 ounce. The top sirloin for all the bite size is marinated in a savory house blend that has a hint of brown sugar and honey for 24 to 36 hours.

The traditional version is breaded with a flour coating then deep fried, leaving the meat crisp on the outside and tender on the inside. If customers prefer, their steak can be grilled without breading. They’re served with au jus or steak sauce, but Theresa Rivers said her favorite way to eat them is plain.

The teriyaki style is not breaded and sauteed in an Asian sauce with peppers, pineapple and onions.

Origin story: The Rivers acquired Wayback Cafe & Catering in 1997 from the Mason family. She was looking for a new career after having hand surgery. Wayback was a good fit because even though she had worked a nine-year stint at CCI/Speer, she always maintained at least one job in hospitality. Among them were being an employee at the Albertsons bakery, a bartender at the Mexican restaurant Cafe Ole, a bartender at the Lewiston Elks club and a restaurant and banquet manager at what is now the Hells Canyon Grand Hotel in Lewiston.

Williams may be contacted at ewilliam@lmtribune.com or (208) 848-2261.

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